The Great Traditional Barolos of Borgogno
It is not often that WINETASTERS offers a vertical that reaches back 50 years. The September tasting this year offers the Barolos of Borgogno back to 1952. The youngest wine in this tasting is a sprightly 1988, 14 years old. It is often said that these great wines made from the Nebbiolo grape should not be enjoyed until their 8th birthday, we expect that age brings with it complexity and grace to these fine wines.
Borgogno was founded in 1761 by Bartolomeo Borgogno and remains in the family until this day. Its reputation also reaches back into the 19th century. In 1861 Borgogno Barolo was served at an official banquet celebrating the unification of Italy and in March 1972 at an auction of vintage wines in Turin, a bottle of Borgogno Barolo 1886 was sold for 530,000 lire. This was a record high price for any bottle of Italian wine. The same vintage had been served many years earlier at a banquet honoring the state visit to Italy of Czar Nicholas 11 Romanov of Russia. In an age when many producers have dramatically changed the style of Barolo to make it so modern as to be unrecognizable to its followers, this historic house steadfastly maintains the traditional style that made Barolo noble in the first place. This is not to say that there is not a currently a movement that addresses today's concerns for more forward fruit and clean wines. Tasting notes do not abound for these wines however, the 1978 is described as "Big, gamy aromas with a whiff of earth. Fat, forward raspberry flavors bolstered by fresh acidity. Lively close." – The Wine News 2002. The 1982 is described by The Wine News as " Forward red fruit aromas highlighted by earthy characteristics and the warmth of alcohol. Soft, silky finish." The 1985 likewise is described as "Tangy, anise-based aromas display the heat of alcohol and a Bordeaux dustiness. Tart, red cherry flavors show off the lively acidity and big tannins. Tight and chewy close." – The Wine News 2002
We are delighted to present the 1952, 1961, 1964, 1974, 1978, 1982, 1985 and 1988 vintages of Borgogno Barolo Reserva.